日本知名壽司師傅<a href="https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/32717552">小野二郎表示</a>「剛剛捏好的壽司是最美味的,所以要盡快食用。壽司的米飯部分是用手捏製的,溫度和人的體溫一樣時最美味。」,他所經營的「數寄屋橋次郎」是日本其中一家最難預約上的餐廳,連白宮也曾為奧巴馬預約小野的服務。雖然難約,但這餐廳內的平均就餐時間只有 15 分鐘,懂得來的客人都知道壽司一定得趁「新鮮」吃才行。<article>
<p>不過,相較於他的堅持,位於大西洋另一頭的他的同業們就煩惱多了。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/master.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/master.jpg 1000w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/master-360x249.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/master-768x531.jpg 768w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="415"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 小野二郎,圖片來自<a href="https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/32717552">《Lens》</a></label></p>
<p>紐約客們習慣在吃壽司時得「手機/相機先行」,廚師不得不看著自己的壽司作品從剛呈上桌時的「完美」狀態,在一張又一張照片下逐漸「衰敗」,錯失最好的食用時間,甚至部分廚師還為了塑造拍起照來好看的壽司而犧牲了味道。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/v2-f76b98f4427cfcf363a8c5af5939b912_b.gif" sizes="(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/v2-f76b98f4427cfcf363a8c5af5939b912_b.gif 450w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/v2-f76b98f4427cfcf363a8c5af5939b912_b-360x202.gif 360w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="337"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 請感受小野出品的壽司剛放下的微妙變化,圖片來自<a href="https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/32717552">《Lens》</a></label></p>
<h3>被拍照糟蹋了的極品壽司</h3>
<p>米其林二星餐廳 Sushi Ginza Onodera 的大廚 <a href="https://ny.eater.com/2018/8/10/17672814/sushi-instagram-ruining-nyc?utm">Masaki Saito</a> 說道:「老實說,我想把手機給禁了。我希望顧客可以將手機調到飛行模式,然後放在一邊。我希望他們可以專心地享受食物。」</p>
<p>在他看來,壽司的每一部分,都包含著來自廚師訓練多年的技藝、漁民、進口商、配送商等的聯合努力,最終才達到這樣理想的狀態,「這就是為什麼它們值 400 美元。」</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Sushi-Ginza-Onodera-Chef-Saito_The-Hedonist-Magazine01.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Sushi-Ginza-Onodera-Chef-Saito_The-Hedonist-Magazine01.jpg 1200w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Sushi-Ginza-Onodera-Chef-Saito_The-Hedonist-Magazine01-360x225.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Sushi-Ginza-Onodera-Chef-Saito_The-Hedonist-Magazine01-768x480.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Sushi-Ginza-Onodera-Chef-Saito_The-Hedonist-Magazine01-1024x640.jpg 1024w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="375"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> Masaki Saito,圖自 <a href="https://www.thehedonistmagazine.com/2017/11/30/sushi-ginza-onodera-one-of-a-kind/">The Hedonist Magazine</a></label></p>
<p>但一般食客至少得花上三四分鐘,才能拍出「完美的 Instagram 照片」,部分食客甚至會「帶一台相機,一台手機來拍照。」</p>
<p>有趣的是,《Journal of Consumer Marketing》曾於 2016 年<a href="https://www.thecut.com/2016/03/the-psychological-case-for-instagramming-your-food.html">發佈了一份研究報告</a>,其中指出,在吃飯前為食物拍上一張美美的照片,能讓食客覺得食物更好吃。</p>
<p>對於同一塊紅絲絨蛋糕,和沒拍照的志願者相比,拍照了的人普遍認為蛋糕更好吃。不過,這個效應對於水果沙拉這種「健康」類貌似無效。</p>
<p>但對於「時效性」極強的壽司而言,「美照」的滿足感又是否能夠彌補食物應有鮮味的缺失?</p>
<p> </p>
<h3>Instagram 在改變壽司</h3>
<p>除此以外,以「合適拍照發 Instagram」為主審核標準的風尚,還在影響著部分紐約市日料的結構。其中一大趨勢就是海膽的崛起。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG135.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 948px) 100vw, 948px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG135.jpg 948w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG135-360x157.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG135-768x335.jpg 768w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="261"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 圖片來自 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BibSDvXBmaz/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=embed_loading_state_control">Instagram</a></label></p>
<p>由於顏色鮮豔,並代表著「高級/昂貴」,帶海膽的菜式是 Instagram 的寵兒,並成為了越來越多食客一坐下就要點的選擇。</p>
<p>「我在一些餐廳發現,帶海膽的日料佔了整個菜單的 1/3」,Ian Purkayastha 表示,他是高級食材經銷商,專門做魚子、松露等高檔食材。Purkayastha 發現,即使是在他們公司的自己的 Instagram 賬號上,帶海膽的照片也比其它的內容受歡迎。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SUSHI-TSURAKU-Hong-Kong-16.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SUSHI-TSURAKU-Hong-Kong-16.jpg 1600w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SUSHI-TSURAKU-Hong-Kong-16-360x240.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SUSHI-TSURAKU-Hong-Kong-16-768x512.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/SUSHI-TSURAKU-Hong-Kong-16-1024x683.jpg 1024w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="400"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 圖片來自 <a href="http://hungryhongkong.net/2014/11/sushi-tsuraku-hong-kong.html">Hungry Hong Kong</a></label></p>
<p>不過,廚師可不喜歡海膽侵佔一切的趨勢,因為它不是一種可體現廚藝的食材。海膽對刀工等處理的需求幾乎是零,只要材料選得好,就會好吃。</p>
<p>麻煩的是,海膽一般的處理方法都是做成帶紫菜的壽司塊,這種類型壽司的味道又特別講究「吃得及時」。另一家紐約的米其林日料餐廳廚師 Masashi Ito 表示,如果海膽壽司放太久,紫菜「就會變得過分濕潤,會黏在你嘴裡,即便當海膽和米飯都被吃完後。」</p>
<p>最後一種由 Instagram 帶起的日料潮流,也許也是最糟糕的——將多種肉類層層疊加在一塊壽司上。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/30078406_230313907714733_5271376553958178816_n.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/30078406_230313907714733_5271376553958178816_n.jpg 1080w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/30078406_230313907714733_5271376553958178816_n-360x450.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/30078406_230313907714733_5271376553958178816_n-768x960.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/30078406_230313907714733_5271376553958178816_n-819x1024.jpg 819w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="480" height="600"><label class="caption" style="width: 480px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 圖片來自 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bhj8J3-F1X9/?taken-by=sushionjones">Instagram</a></label></p>
<blockquote>
<p>很多餐廳都在一塊壽司上放上金槍魚、海膽和魚子。這樣的搭配口味太多了,你根本什麼都吃不出來。</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Ito 說。他認為,這就是社群網路害的:「當客人帶著大相機來,或是遇上一些網路部落客,廚師就會覺得,我不能只給他們普通壽司,我要在上面多放些東西。」</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG137.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 592px) 100vw, 592px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG137.jpg 592w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/WechatIMG137-360x360.jpg 360w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="600"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 「層次就是美」,圖片來自 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BmKQz1wB9SQ/?hl=en&amp;taken-at=1461972480530391">Instagram</a></label></p>
<p>其中,在這方面做得最極致的,也許得數 Sushi on Jones 餐廳和他們額「巨無霸(Big Mac)」——在同一塊壽司裡,同時用上肥美的金槍魚、和牛和海膽,視覺衝擊滿分。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/slack_imgs__1_-1.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1078px) 100vw, 1078px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/slack_imgs__1_-1.jpg 1078w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/slack_imgs__1_-1-360x223.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/slack_imgs__1_-1-768x477.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/slack_imgs__1_-1-1024x635.jpg 1024w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="372"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 和牛+海膽. 圖片來自 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjfhRcGDLcK/?hl=en&amp;taken-by=sushionjoneshttps://www.instagram.com/p/BjfhRcGDLcK/?hl=en&amp;taken-by=sushionjones">Sushi on Jones</a></label></p>
<p>問題是,當你真正去吃的時候,和牛會完全蓋過金槍魚的味道,而海膽,也會淪為一團鹹味奶油。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/de-1.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/de-1.jpg 1080w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/de-1-360x204.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/de-1-768x435.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/de-1-1024x580.jpg 1024w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="340"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 霓虹燈前的「巨無霸」,圖片來自 <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjfhRcGDLcK/?hl=en&amp;taken-by=sushionjoneshttps://www.instagram.com/p/BjfhRcGDLcK/?hl=en&amp;taken-by=sushionjones">Sushi on Jones</a></label></p>
<p>事實上,壽司「巨無霸」並不是唯一一種「照騙美食」。<a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/instagram-is-ruining-food-as-we-know-it-2017-4">《Business Insider》</a>去年就嘗了一輪各種在 Instagram 上的「網紅食品」。</p>
<p>「彩虹百吉餅(bagel)」?吃起來就跟一般百吉餅一樣.</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Non-Feature-rainbow-bagel-secrets-viral-food-unicorn-trend-NEW.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 670px) 100vw, 670px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Non-Feature-rainbow-bagel-secrets-viral-food-unicorn-trend-NEW.jpg 670w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Non-Feature-rainbow-bagel-secrets-viral-food-unicorn-trend-NEW-360x232.jpg 360w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="386"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 彩虹百吉餅,圖片來自 <a href="https://www.tastingtable.com/dine/national/rainbow-bagel-secrets-viral-food-unicorn-trend">Tasting Table</a></label></p>
<p>而連我們這些喝不上都要聽過的「獨角獸星冰樂」,據說還不如一般星冰樂好喝。</p>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/sb.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 954px) 100vw, 954px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/sb.jpg 954w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/sb-360x226.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/sb-768x483.jpg 768w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="377"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 圖片來自 <a href="https://dappei.com/articles/2657">Dappei 搭配</a></label></p>
<p>而且一杯「獨角獸星冰樂」就包辦了 FDA 倡議人體每天攝入糖份 80%,絢爛的顏色也是來自人工色素,那對健康也有潛在影響。</p>
<p> </p>
<h3>店主和顧客,大家都有投票權</h3>
<p><img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Children-Love-Sushi.jpg" sizes="(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px" srcset="https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Children-Love-Sushi.jpg 2000w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Children-Love-Sushi-360x180.jpg 360w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Children-Love-Sushi-768x384.jpg 768w, https://images.ifanr.cn/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Children-Love-Sushi-1024x512.jpg 1024w" alt="「吃飯必拍照」Instagram正在改變壽司端上來的樣貌,但你或許該聽聽日本壽司師父怎麼說" width="600" height="300"><label class="caption" style="width: 600px; display: block; text-align: left; color: #555; line-height: 22px; padding: 0 3px 22px 3px; border-bottom: 2px solid #f0f0f0; margin: 5px auto 1rem auto;"><span style="color: #2382c5; padding-right: 5px;"> ▲ </span> 圖片來自 <a href="http://businessmusing.com/5-ways-help-children-love-sushi/">Business Musing</a></label></p>
<p>Instgram 對日料的影響,讓紐約的日料餐廳基本分成了兩派。</p>
<p>認為口味更重要的 Ito 時而會為食客打造視覺上更吸引人的壽司,但心中存有底線:「蟹肉+海膽+和牛?這都是什麼?它看起來很好,但真的是最好吃嗎?這可不一定。」</p>
<p>但也有日料店主認為,雖然 Instagram 有部分不好的影響,但總的來說,它們對生意還是很有幫助的。Sushi Ishikawa 的 Don Pham 說:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>像我們這樣的小店,沒錢請 PR 來為我們宣傳,Instgram 就是很好的宣傳管道。如果你對自己的產品很有信心,Instagram 就能幫助你。</p>
</blockquote>
<p>不過,店主和廚師並不是唯一有選擇權的人,我們作為消費者和食客同樣如此。</p>
<p>和合適拍照的食物相比,你是否會更願意選擇口味至上的食物?</p>
<p>如果你的答案跟我一樣是後者,那問題又來了,我們該如何在這個只追求拍照好看的網路中發掘美食?</p>
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<li>本文授權轉載自:<a href="https://www.ifanr.com/1086662">ifanr</a>
</li>
</ul>
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