7 thematic jewellery collections for October, from Bulgari to Chanel

Rooted in ancient symbols and Renaissance architecture, this season’s stand-out jewellery collections bring fresh energy to iconic motifs and precious gemstones.

Bibi Van Der Velden

From ancient Egypt to the art deco movement, the scarab motif has been a near-constant in jewellery. Dutch designer Bibi Van Der Velden is a big fan, with her scarab rings becoming a signature of her brand. The designer recently expanded her collection with The Scarab Pinky Rings, five smaller rings designed specifically for the pinky. Made in yellow gold embellished with white diamonds, the five creations are adorned with colourful stones ranging from ebony and malachite to pink opal, turquoise, spinel and tourmaline.

Bulgari

Bulgari never shies away from eye-catching colour combinations. The Roman jeweller’s Tubogas bracelets each feature a rubellite, tourmaline or tanzanite as the centrepiece, flanked by complementary accent stones as well as diamonds. All three pieces successfully combine chromatic extravagance with sleek geometric lines.

Chanel

One of Chanel’s signature motifs, the camellia takes pride of place in this tiered necklace. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel famously started wearing a white camellia pinned to her belt in 1913 and later continued with it in her creations. Since then, the flower, which famously doesn’t have a scent, has appeared in pieces ranging from handbags to jewels. In this multi-strand necklace, the petals of the delicate flower are recreated in yellow gold and diamonds.

Mara Paris

The geometry of Mara Paris’ jewels is meant to evoke the architecture of the buildings surrounding the brand’s recently opened showroom on Rue de la Paix in Paris. Designer Ayça Özbank also looked at the facades of Italian palazzos and the work of Italian Renaissance thinkers such as Leon Battista Alberti and Andrea Palladio. Those references translate into pieces where reeded surfaces and asymmetrically set diamonds create striking shapes that evoke motion and fluidity.

Sabyasachi

Luxury Indian house Sabyasachi begins a multi-year collaboration with The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York with a high jewellery collection that pays tribute to the art of the Byzantine Empire. The range, which debuted at New York Fashion Week last month, features statement pieces such as a necklace with a tiger-claw pendant inspired by a 12th century bone-ivory carved panel depicting animals, and a wrist cuff re-creating the engravings of a 3rd century Roman frieze.

Spinelli Kilcollin

If you’re a fan of the marquise cut, the recently launched Wren line from Los Angeles-based Spinelli Kilcollin is especially for you. The pointed, elongated form of the marquise cut diamond takes centre stage in the necklaces, rings and earrings of the collection. Like all Spinelli Kilcollin creations, the Wren pieces stand out for their modular construction, allowing the diamonds and bands to move and adapt in sync with the wearer’s movements.

Type

Founded by Panamanian designer Sara Bassan, Type is a jewellery brand to watch. Its Leggo collection is great for those who approach jewellery like fashion while still appreciating timeless creations made with precious gemstones. Perfect for stacking, the playful range includes graphic pieces embellished with gems like amethyst and tourmaline, and necklaces and bracelets with fringe accents in white diamonds.

Additional contributions by Sumnima Kandangwa